ricciarelli recipe by giuseppe dell'anno

Recipes

Ricciarelli

Orange and almond are a flavour marriage made in heaven

Ingredients

Introduction

Ingredients

  • 250g (9oz/2½ cups) ground almonds or (generous 1¾ cups) whole blanched almonds
  • 250g (9oz/1¾ cups) icing (confectioners’) sugar, plus extra for shaping and decorating
  • zest of 1 organic orange
  • 85g (3oz) egg white (about 2-3 medium egg whites), at room temperature
  • 1/8 tsp cream of tartar
  • 1 tsp vanilla bean paste
  • ½ tsp natural almond extract

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Introduction

Nobody visiting Siena could possibly miss the piles of ricciarelli proudly stacked on bakery windows around the city. Typically a biscuit baked and given as a present for Christmas, it can now be found all over Tuscany throughout the year. Ricciarelli are simple and delicious almond cookies, unmistakably shaped as a rice grain and always coated with a thick layer of icing sugar.

As per most traditional Italian bakes, there are as many variations to the ricciarelli recipe as there are families in Siena, nevertheless, one of the best documented mentions of this biscuit in the 19th century stipulates that no flour should be used, making this recipe inherently gluten-free. Orange and almond are a flavour marriage made in heaven, so ramping up the orange zest content or using some lemon zest too, although possibly not authentic, works very well.

The recipe is very simple, but the two slots of resting time are critical to success: chilling the dough overnight will make it more manageable when shaping the biscuits, while leaving the shaped ricciarelli to dry before baking ensures the typical cracked surface.

The relatively sticky dough might make shaping fiddly, so I recommend using lots of icing sugar when handling the biscuits to make the job easier.

The biggest mistake when making ricciarelli is to over-bake them: the centre of the biscuit should remain soft and gooey, so take them out of the oven as soon as the pointed edges start to become golden.

These biscuits go traditionally well with vin santo, coffee or hot chocolate; personally I prefer to cut through the sweetness with a chilled glass of extra-dry prosecco.

Instructions

  1. If using whole almonds, grind them in a food processor. Pulsing is ideal, alternatively, they should be processed at the maximum speed just long enough to reduce them to a sandy texture. Avoid over-processing the nuts as they might overheat and leach out oil.
  2. In a large bowl, mix the ground almonds with the icing sugar and orange zest until fully combined.
  3. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites and cream of tartar with electric whisks until foamy. Incorporate the vanilla paste and the almond extract into the egg whites and keep whisking to form stiff peaks.
  4. Incorporate the whipped egg whites into the almond mixture to make a paste. You will be knocking most of the air out of the whites while mixing, but this will not be a problem. Wrap the dough in clingfilm and let it rest in the fridge overnight.
  5. The next day, line two baking sheets with baking paper and set them aside. Sift a generous layer of icing sugar over a clean and dry worktop and roll out the dough to make a 5cm (2in) diameter sausage. Dust the sausage-shaped dough with extra icing sugar to ensure that it does not stick to the worktop.
  6. Slice the dough into discs about 12–15mm (½ –5/8in) thick, ensuring that the surface is always generously dusted with sugar throughout the process. Shape each disc into an oval, about 1cm (½in) thick, to give the biscuits the typical rice grain shape. Lay the biscuits over the prepared baking sheets and dust them again with icing sugar: the surface should be entirely covered in sugar.
  7. Let the biscuits rest on the baking sheets for 1–2 hours or until their surface is completely dry. The resting time will depend on the humidity of the room, so check the dryness of the dough by gently pressing on one of the pointed edges: the biscuits are ready to be baked when the dough offers some resistance and cracks when pushed.
  8. While the biscuits rest, set the shelf in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 150°C static (325°F/Gas mark 3).
  9. Bake the biscuits, one tray at a time, for 15–16 minutes, increasing the temperature to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4) after the first 5 minutes. All being well, the biscuits will crack while baking, creating golden cracks across the white sugared surface.
  10. When they come out of the oven, ricciarelli are still soft: let them cool completely before taking them off the baking paper. Store in an airtight container for up to a week.

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